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wave refraction
Wave refraction is the process by which wave crests are bent according to variations in seabed contours. This is because as a wave enters shallow water its speed becomes a function of water depth, which causes a change in wave direction in differing water depths.
- Szófaj: noun
- Ipar/Tárgykör: Earth science
- Kategória: Oceanography
- Company: Marine Conservation Society
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